Karijini

Acknowledgement

We acknowledge Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander peoples as the traditional owners of Country throughout Australia. We recognise the continuing connection to land, water, language and community. We pay our respect to the cultures; and to Elders past, present and emerging.

We are committed to walking lightly on the land of your ancestors, only taking knowledge and understanding, only leaving footprints and the whisper of our spirits, breathing in the awe of this great land we are privileged to call home. 

We come from the land of the Yugara and Yumambeh peoples and have stopped to rest and learn in Karijini, the land of the Banyjima, Kurrama and Innawonga people.

Above the 26th

We’re well and truly ‘above the 26th’ and heading deeper into the country’s North West. Apparently (according to tourism Western Australia), this is “one of the world’s last true wilderness areas and the place to go for an authentic Aussie outback adventure.” We’ll be travelling through the Pilbra then on to the Kimberley, with Karijini our first stop and a definite bucket list destination.

From Exmouth to Karijini

The coast quickly morphed to outback landscape that served up expanses of nothingness intermittently interrupted by the strangest piles of crushed rock that I’m sure are naturally occurring, but look as though they been dropped off by a tilt truck. This drive was set to be a long one, and one that started late. We left camp at about 8:30, but didn’t leave Exmouth until about 11am. We aimed to arrive at Karijini by 5. The tension between Malachi and Joey was mounting. Physical fighting has never really been an issue in our house other than the occasional snatch or push and shove. I wonder if it is as Malachi edges closer to adolescence that he’ll test the waters with physical responses to his frustration. Regardless, there was a punch or two thrown in the back of the car and some pretty serious conversations about natural and imposed consequences. Both Joey and Malachi felt I was grossly unfair with how it was managed.

We needed diesel, and we wanted to take the most direct and quickest route to Karijini that allowed us to get it. There were two possible routes; through Tom Price or through Paraburdoo. Through Tom Price was more direct, but is a dirt road and signed as 4WD only. You never can tell what ‘4WD only’ actually means. It could be recently graded, well compacted, heavenly smooth dirt road. It could also be severely corrugated and heavily rutted dirt road. We pulled over to interrogate the maps and figure out if both towns offered fuel before making a decision when a fellow troopy traveller pulled up behind us to check in. He let us know we’d be crazy to go through Paraburdoo. Not only is Munjina (the dirt road) a piece of cake, there’s absolutely nothing in Paraburdoo, and it’s the long way round! We expressed our thanks to helpful Ned and headed on to Tom Price.

In Tom Price we filled up with diesel, stocked up on the essentials that were available, and continued to Karijini NP, frustrated to learn that our actual camping spot was an hour further than we realised. Now scheduled to arrive at 6pm, resilience was waining.

The Arrival

We drove into the Karijini Eco Retreat Campground right on 6pm. This was a big day. I checked in and got all the required info, we spied a few dingos around the place and then headed to our assigned site. As we approached we realised there were people set up camp in our spot. Really not the best discovery considering the time of day and the family’s tolerance levels. We drove back to reception and informed them. The woman at reception literally smiled and said to me, ‘Love that for you’! I breathed and gave a strained smile in return as I didn’t trust myself to open my mouth. She told me to wait as she would have to drive to the campsite to see who they were and what was going on because ‘they’ll just have to move’. I had already decided I wasn’t waiting for these people to pack up and move at 6pm.

The woman returned and ultimately allocated us a new site. Her parting words, rather than apology or empathy, were; ‘and if there’s someone in your spot this time, just come back and see me’ *laughing smile*. This time I was unsuccessful at keeping my mouth shut and as politely as I could manage at the time, told her that it was after 6pm, that I’d been in the car for over 8 hours, that she’d stuffed me around once already, told me I couldn’t make a reservation at the restaurant because I’m a camper and not a glamper, not offered me any apology or compensation, and that should someone be in my spot again, she definitely wouldn’t be loving that – for me or her.

Birthday Battery Blues

Saturday morning came and the frustration of the night before spilled over into the morning as the batteries still hadn’t completely recovered from the epic draining in Exmouth. This was a less than ideal ‘welcome to the 40s’ for Leon. We had the fishing charter, the cake, and the celebratory bourbon in Exmouth. This morning, in and around battery monitoring, we gave Leon his new sunnies and cooked him a stellar brekky wrap. Once the solar was reliably feeding into the batteries, and Leon was more relaxed, we headed out for our first day of exploring. As we left we watched a few of the local dingoes clean up any crumbs left behind by the early departing campers.

Weano’s Gorge and Handrail Pool

On the itinerary for day one was Weano’s Gorge with the reward of Handrail Pool, and Handcock Gorge with the reward of Kermit’s Pool. It was clear that Karijini was going to live up to expectation (and more) from the moment we descended into Weano Gorge. The crystal clear water with the most picturesque green hue, in start contrast to the towering red rock typical of the Kimberley, was mesmerising. We’d walked a couple of hundred meters and the kids were impressed and wanting to swim in the small but inviting pools early in the walk. We continued down the path and balanced/climbed along the edges of the gorge to avoid walking through the water. If scaling rock walls is an option, our kids will take it. So they were in their element scampering down the gorge up and down the rock walls as it suited them.

As you near Handrail Pool the gorge narrows so much an adult can touch either side as they walk. Again, multiple opportunities for climbing presented themselves, and were gladly taken by all three kids. The rock is so smooth at times, obviously under water in the wet season, and incredibly slippery under damp feet. The variance in the colour of the rock and the way it changes in various light conditions is captivating. There’s no photo I could take that would do it justice. This narrow chasm opens briefly to a small but beautiful pool that is almost fully enclosed by the towering cliffs. Again the kids found all sorts of creative ways to get past this pool and slip into the gorge where it narrows again for a few meters.

As you emerge once again from the cliffs towering above, you are gifted an elevated view of Handrail Pool below – the grandmother of the previous pool. The descent is close to vertical. As the name suggests a handrail has been installed to assist. The water is crystal clear and the reflections are phenomenal. The water is icy as expected.

After much deliberation while standing in the waist deep freezing water, Joey decided it was too much for him to swim through the chasm on the opposite side. Leon, Malachi and Teddy explored a little further before returning and telling us there’s not much more to see and very soon there’s a chain signaling you can’t go any further. I enjoyed/endured an overwhelmingly refreshing swim before we ventured back out of Weano’s Gorge and headed to Handcock.

Handcock Gorge and Kermit’s Pool

We’ve learnt that for walks that are almost entirely on a rock base, our kids are better off in bare feet. We’ve also learnt that our kids can smash a grade five walk without difficultly. Their commitment is totally dependent on mood and frame of mind, not ability.

The walk to Kermit’s Pool at the end of the Handcock Gorge walk is an interesting one. So much to see, take in, consider, touch. You’re captivated the entire journey. There are stretches of the walk you need to wade or swim through water, or attempt to scale the rock walls above, to proceed. There’s a natural amphitheatre that we enjoyed a rest in. Theodore enjoyed it a little too much and didn’t want to continue. He had well and truly cracked it. I have decided that a kid’s tantrum will not be stopping me from exploring and enjoying the natural beauty our country serves up. So the rest of the family continued on the walk and left Teddy in the amphitheatre sulking on his own.

It was a risk as after the amphitheatre there’s a spider walk down to Kermit’s Pool that Theodore should not be doing on his own. After failing to convince him to come, we pressed on. Joey and Malachi scampered down the next stretch as though they had eight legs and we began to enjoy another very refreshing dip. Not too long after, I glance back at the spider walk and who should be clambering down but Theodore, closely followed by a park ranger. Thankfully the ranger was not loaded with judgement for us abandoning our young child on a grade 5 walk. Theodore made it unassisted and thankfully seemed to have left his foul attitude behind. Kermit’s Pool is small, but very pretty. Again, a chain stops you from progressing further down the gorge.

I spoke with the ranger for some time who told me that the striking red and blue veins in the rocks of these gorges is iron and calcium. He says there are two types of people who visit the park. Those who come to experience the natural beauty, history and adventure, and those who come and see the dollar signs of what could be mined. He also said that the more you learn about the monetary value of these minerals, the more you question if sentiment, history etc is in fact priceless. I explained to the ranger that many people would view this place with the same sentiment as one may view their child. This perspective allows you to understand the true concept of pricelessness.

Evening

We headed back to camp and saw many more dingoes on our arrival. They don’t bother you, they just cruise on by. There are clearly some that have bred with wild dogs, which is confirmed when you hear them bark. The howling through the night is super cool and surprisingly not unsettling.

It was a restful afternoon, making the most of phone reception to return missed calls. This came to an abrupt end when Theodore’s frolicking landed him in a decent spinifex bush totally annihilating his left arm with an army of tiny spinifex splinters. Each puncture wound slowly swelled and became a welt. Theodore was in so much pain. Leon and I carefully extracted as many splinters as possible, however many had been engulfed by the swelling and were irretrievable. I took him for a shower and gave him an antihistamine and he felt much better.

Since we couldn’t make a booking at the restaurant as we were lowly campers, take away birthday burgers it was. These were possibly the most disappointing over priced burgers I’ve ever ordered. Theodore ordered a hot dog ($12) and received, I kid you not, half a hotdog. A smallish, full hotdog bun had a full fankfurt placed inside, and was then cut in half. They served him half a hot dog. Without sides. He had about a 5cm hotdog. I don’t know about others kids, but for mine this is a small snack, not a meal. All burgers were disappointing, but that was disgraceful.

We returned to the camper to sing Happy Birthday and celebrate with a Tim Tam tower cake, before watching the Broncos. Not only was it a disappointing loss to the Storm, the struggle through attempting to watch our beloved bucks lose was extra intense with intermittent internet and Kayo repeatedly sending us back to the start of the match. It was indeed a frustrating evening, and annoying that that’s how Leon’s actual birthday ended.

Mother’s Day

I had a lovely Mother’s Day morning. Leon made me breakfast, the kids made coffee, and I was gifted a great pair of Burberry sunglasses that Leon and Malachi found at an earlier gorge, hidden in a crevasse and obviously regretfully forgotten. That is love. Since I left my Goodr sunnies on my seat in the car and a child stood on them and snapped the arm off, I was incredibly grateful. Not to mention they’re comfortable and fit my face. Winning!

Theodore is still so congested. This kid has literally been congested for months. And now with the more significant temperature changes throughout the days and evenings, he seems to be getting worse. Or at least sneezing more.

Hamersley (Minhthumundi) Gorge

Today, Hamersley Gorge was the attraction. It was a bit of a drive, but the walk in was easy. It was a beautiful gorge, different to the other two. Significantly more open, lots of different swimming options, many rocks to climb and different areas to explore, and the water was warmer! The contrast is beautiful. The colour, the texture and reflections. The red and steely grey rocks that have buckled under ancient pressure, the deep royal blue of the sky, and the crystal green water.

Ever since Ormiston Gorge in the West MacDonnell Ranges, rock baking has become a must capture, and Hamersley served up some great baking spots. The kids enjoyed using the ultra smooth rocks as slippery slides, unfortunately resulting in Mal and Ted having ripped shorts and Teddy a side of a burnt butt cheek! We discovered the famous Spa Pool towards the northern end of the gorge and both Theodore and Leon ventured in. It’s a little less inviting than the photos suggest, but it is pretty spectacular. We met a Belgen couple who were travelling WA for a month after being on the Gold Coast attending ATE23 for work. They were so impressed with the family’s ability to scamper and climb over the rocks and we had a great time chatting with them. It was a wonderfully relaxing day, again one where we were saturated with natural beauty.

On the drive home Joey’s nose began to bleed, which is not peculiar for him and he handled it like a champ. The drive home delivered beautiful views of the Hamersley Ranges, rusty iron red ridges adorned by white trunked trees with deep green leaves. Rustic beauty at its finest. Knowing that crystal clear, emerald green pockets of oasis are nestled behind them makes the sight even more remarkable. When we arrived home Malachi cooked burritos for dinner and Joey made custard for desert. It was a lovely end to a day well spent.

Dales Gorge

Who knew where you sit in the car, and who you sit next to would be such a point of tension. Well, I do. I would have been the kid who owned where I sat, was particular about who with and when and for how long. It was high stakes for me as a kid, and could make or break my emotional state. But I do wish my own kids did not inherit this ridiculousness and would just get over it.

We decided to take the road labelled ‘4WD Track’ as again it was more direct and ensured no backtracking. You could have 100% taken this road in 2WD. We were headed for Dales Gorge which is home to Fortescue Falls and Fern Pool. These are two of the most picturesque places in the park. They don’t have the same sense of adventure and are not dramatic like the others in Karijini; they are softer. More intimate. The green of the water in these pools exemplifies the rainforest green of the Insta-worthy pics that I’m not skilled enough to capture. It’s phenomenal and lures you into extended stares and audible gasps. It’s the creamy greenish blue of the apatite gemstone.

The water is cold in these pools as expected, but it does not steal your breath like the others, and they are very accessible. Fortescue has a convenient rock shelf that allows for smooth entry into the pools with just an ounce of gracefulness, and fern book as a handmade deck and pool ladder. At the other pools I would joke with other visitors about the attempts to gracefully fall into the waters as both walking and diving in we’re not viable options.

My assumption is that these pools are more frequently visited than the others because of the short walk in and their location within the park.
Fortescue had a beautifully peaceful pool as well as a small but well flowing waterfall that cascaded down the terraced rock tucked neatly around to the right side of the pool. There were not really any rock baking opportunities, so Leon and I attempted to ‘bake’ in the waterfall – it was not particularly successful, but we got a cool photo! We didn’t spend too long at this pool as we wanted to visit Fern Pool and also get on the road earlyish in the day to ensure a reasonable arrival time to Port Hedland. After some deliberation about which direction Fern Pool was in (Leon was right), Leon and the kids forged on and left me to bring up the rear on the muddy path, bare feet, wrapped in a towel, and carrying the kids’ shoes and our backpack… Don’t worry about me guys, I’ll catch you up there! At least I have cool sunnies.

The visit to Fern Pool was fleeting. We marvelled at the beauty and Leon and I swam to the waterfall and back. It was especially noticeable in this pool, that fresh water is incredibly hard work. The buoyancy of Shell Beach is a luxury of long ago. In this fresh water your body is drawn to the depths with surprising force. Laying on your back or a slow breast stroke is much much more energy efficient than attempting to stay vertical and tread water. It’s remarkable.

Karijini has been everything I imagined. An incredible colour pallet and mesmerising textures. The gorges, pools and falls are distinctly different, but there are strong Karijini genes that make it clear they’re all part of the same family and born of the same ancestors.

Karijini is a true oasis, nestled in the middle of a mining wasteland. Protected, but dangerously vulnerable. Again, I am filled with gratitude that I’ve been afforded the privilege to experience such wonder.