Homeward Bound

Frewena

Green yellow grey and reddish brown shrubbery flanks the Stewart and Barkley Highways. We’re back in the land of gun barrel straight road that’s flat for as far as you can see. We’re also back to long drives of about 7 hours and over night stays. We do well, but we’re out of practice.

Initially we were considering staying at the Barkley Homestead, but seriously out of cash and therefore free camps are highly desired, we discovered Frewena free camp along the Barkley Highway and pulled in just after 5. 

There were lots of people here already but there was enough space for us to have a pretty private spot close to the water. There was a large wetlands area alive with birds. It was a quick and easy set up with all kids eager to help, and we were gifted another remarkable sunset that was golden in the west over the water casting clouds of pink and blue in the east. Just as the sun disappeared over the horizon the bugs were in full force. I am so incredibly grateful that they weren’t mozzies and didn’t bite or sting, but to avoid an interesting dance routine of shooing bugs from underneath my shirt, in my ears and eyes etc. I had to put on a hoodie and tracksuit pants. Then the only struggle was keeping the the bugs from the cooking fried rice.

Thankfully, as dinner was ready, and we’d farewelled the last light, the bugs calmed down as quickly as they’d invaded and we were able to enjoy dinner… extra crunch included.

Unsure of exactly where we’re staying tomorrow and how long the drive will be, we want to get an early start as it’s less than ideal to arrive at camp in the dark. We had all kids fed and in bed by 8, after finishing off a movie on the the iPad and Joey’s hair neatly in two braids- it’s getting so long! Long enough to still be relatively neat in the morning.

Clem Walton Park

It is a cold morning. I’m not looking forward to the cold at home. I am a 26 degrees and above kinda gal. We have been spoilt rotten with weather. A day of rain at Kings Canyon, a couple of rainy days in Albany, some overcast days in the Margaret River area, and blue skies with perfect temperatures the other 52 days of our trip. It’s been bliss. 

We were up and back on the road before 9, excited to be crossing back into Queensland today, hoping to hit the coast at Bowen by Tuesday. 

The expansive land of caramel coloured grass and the big wide blue skies of western Queensland are back and again I’m awe struck. What’s also back are the kamikaze birds. Those poor stupid birds. 

Hopeful to make it past Mt Isa, and we did. We stayed the night at a free camp Clem Walton Park. We found it on Wiki. We came to a gate that looked to have multiple padlocks on a very decent chain holding it shut. We almost turned away, but Leon got out to check and the chain wasn’t actually locked. So we unraveled it and I jumped to the drivers seat to keep going down the first track. 

It was slightly unnerving as there weren’t any signs, there were multiple possible turns to take and before too long the track became dotted with large sharp rocks and deep rutts weaved their way through the ebbs and flows of this narrow out back track. I hoped to god that there was somewhere to turn around if I had driven the family down a track to nowhere! Eventually the track opened up to a beautiful river side camp area, complete with fire pits, picnic tables and toilets. 

We had a restful afternoon. The boys flicked a few lures, I chatted with some other campers, then we played some ping pong, a game of sevens and got the fire started. Exactly the afternoon we all needed after day three of big drives and over night stays. Again, the cold crept in as the sun left.  

Prairie Hotel

It was an evening of nightmares and midnight wees for the kids, which means very little sleep for me. So I was tired even before we started driving today. I also been training myself not to sleep on my stomach since Exmouth, and it still feel unnatural and is a bit of struggle. Hopefully the effort saves my ongoing neck issues!

Heading into the fourth day of just driving, feeling sleep deprived and realising our funds for the trip have officially been completely drained, car morale was low.   

We didn’t want any more long drives after today, so we put pressure on ourselves to get as far as we could. We knew we could get farther than Hughenden, but didn’t think Charters Towers was doable, so had a few spots pinned as possibilities. As the day drew on our stamina wained earlier than expected and we pulled in to the Prairie Hotel. They offer free camping out the back to pub patrons.

I jumped out of the car and met Bill behind the bar. He was super friendly with a country sense of humour. Told me to park up out the back, watch out for Buffy the water buffalo, feed her some bread if we like, and pop back in at 6:30 if we’d like a feed. He couldn’t tell me what was on the menu, but said it’d be good. He also said they don’t have a pig. But some other campers saw a pig. So if we see a pig, be sure to let him know! Needless to say, we followed Bill’s instructions. He gave me a wave and called out ‘on ya Gabz, see ya later on’ and I left the bar feeling better about life. 

We went and set up. Met Buffy. She was super intimidating initially, but lovely and gentle when we got up close. We also saw the pig! One of the young ladies from behind the bar also saw the pig and was like… that’s not ours. Not sure where that came from. And she lured it into a paddock, and took a video on her phone. Soon enough someone arrived with a horse float to pick up their pig who’d escaped and it squealed like a pig as it was manhandled on board.

After a lazy afternoon of watching the sunset, chatting to other campers and the kids making whips out of scraps of rope, Leon and I enjoyed another warm camper shower before we all ruggged up in our warm clothes and headed to the pub. Joey and Teddy couldn’t believe we let them wear their onesies out to dinner! To pay for our camping we each bought a drink and made the headcount for dinner.

It was a very cool little country pub. Lots of old photos, a ceiling covered in old Akubras, wall mounted buffalo, kangaroo and bore heads, old chainsaw engines on a bookshelf, there were interesting things everywhere you looked. While we drank our drinks and waited for dinner, the boys enjoyed playing pool while I chatted to Bill. I had a great time.

Before too long the dinner bell sounded and we were told dinner was ready. Leon said to Bill, ‘where do we head for dinner?’ Bill’s reply, ‘To the dining room of course! Just through that door.’

We walked through the doors to find a fourteen seat timber dining table, with a large chandelier, full quirky country decor continuing. The table was set for the nine people who were having dinner, with our dinner waiting in our place. It was a glorious surprise.

After dinner we played more pool and I spent quite some time chatting with the lady who own the hotel. It was such a cool evening.

Ben Lomond Station

Headed for a property camp at Ben Lomond Station about half way between Bowen and Airlie Beach. It has great reviews so we’re looking forward to a rest in this part of the world. Apparently we’re likely to catch more crab/crayfish and potentially some fish, in Eden Lassie Creek that runs through the property.

The cane fields and the mango orchids that you expect to see in this part of the world began to frame the roads, and despite still being hours from the destination, it feels close. 

We are exhausted. This is our fifth full day of driving. The kids are coping remarkably well. Leon and I are both over it. The mixture of emotions that come with heading home and essentially our outback adventure ending. Heading back to crowds, school holiday population in camping sports, and ultimately the reality of returning to normality and everything that comes with it. For me, it’s a mixture of dread, and homesickness for the people I love who I haven’t seen in months. Some of whom really need a hug right now. All of this, along with the cold seeping in way too quickly; the stress of diminished funds, interest rates continuously on the rise, and the house building hitting some milestones that require decisions; I’m really quite emotionally overwhelmed. I am in need of some relaxing days and am so looking forward to them.

Google Maps directed us on this bazaar little detour around Ayr. We seem to always take the more scenic route. Which I’m repeatedly grateful for in hindsight. We learned later that it was to avoid pretty significant road works. Narrow lanes with cane towering high on the right, an open railway track a few feet from the road on the left just in front of the mango trees. Traditional Queenslanders placed sporadically along the road. It was beautiful. Very Queensland. Malachi wondered aloud what all the cloud dispensers were (sugar mills) which I thought was hilarious. 

Quick stop in Bowen for some supplies from Woolworths. The people were notably lovely. A number of them who watched Leon drive away to find a park after I jumped out, welcomed me to Bowen, told me to enjoy the travel etc. It was a great feel.

Soon enough (well, after seven hours on the road), we made it to Ben Lomond Station and met with the legend that is Colleen.